Getting A Custom-Made Wedding Dress

So in my search for a vintage-y wedding dress, I ended up getting a local designer to custom-make a gown for me. I had a bit of a search to find someone that was within my budget, and who I felt was on the same wavelength as me. Obviously, it was a big decision. Here are some of the things I learned, hopefully it can help someone else out!

Try On Some Dresses

The same as with other clothes, some dresses that look fantastic on those bridal magazine models can be less than impressive in the dressing room. And some dresses that look a little "meh" on the hanger can look fabulous on! If you're thinking about getting your wedding dress custom-made, I highly recommend trying on some dresses at a bridal salon to get a feel for what styles and fabrics are most comfortable and flattering. Before you head to the store, you can start by checking your own closet for inspiration-- is there a cocktail dress that always makes you feel sexy and beautiful? Do you feel best in a particular neckline or silhouette? Being confident in what looks best on you will make it easier to discuss design with a dressmaker.

I'd also suggest trying on a few different styles of dresses--you may discover a style that surprises you.

Find A Designer

I actually found my dress designer through online classifieds--and many designers or dressmakers do advertise this way, especially if they're just starting out. You can also ask friends and family members if they know of anyone who had a dress made and what their experience was like. I talked to a few designers to get a feel for what it would be like to work together, and to check out their portfolios.

Bring Pictures

Designers are by nature very visual people, and having some photographic examples of what you like and want can be very helpful in designing your wedding dress. Pictures will also give the designer a chance to discuss potential costs, and make suggestions on how a particular design might be altered to be most flattering for the bride.

Get References

If it's possible, talk to the wedding dress designer's previous clients, look through his or her portfolio, and see some of his or her work up close. Does the dress look finished and professional? Are there loose threads or strange bunching? Is the trim carefully applied, or is there a sloppy look about it?

If you do get a chance to speak with previous clients, some questions to consider might be

• what was the designer like to work with?
• was their estimate of costs accurate?
• did he/she have trouble meeting deadlines?
• were you able to reach the designer easily? Were phone calls and emails returned within a reasonable amount of time?

Consider The Costs

Some people may have the impression that having a wedding dress custom made should cost the same or be even cheaper than the gowns in bridal salons. This is totally not true! Making a wedding dress requires many hours of painstaking attention, and you should expect to pay the professional you've hire for both time and materials.

You should first and foremost be honest about your dress budget, to see what's possible and what isn't. Fabric choice, amount of lace and trim, and the type of dress you want can all impact the final price, and the designer may have some helpful suggestions on how the dress might be made for a lower cost.

Sketches, Samples, and Prototypes

You should expect to see some sketches of ideas, and be given fabric samples to choose from. Fabric choice not only impacts cost, but the drape and overall feel of the dress. Don't be afraid to talk to your designer if you have questions or concerns about your fabric choice.

After taking measurements, most designers will make a muslin prototype of the dress for the bride to try on. This allows the designer to adjust for fit, and gives you your first preview of what your dress will look like. My prototype was made from a bunch of scrap fabric in greys and browns, and I really had to use my imagination to try and picture it in white!

I was really happy with my decision to have my wedding dress made--I got exactly what I wanted, tailored to fit both me and my budget.

Are you having your dress made? By a professional designer, dressmaker, or by a family member or friend? What advice do you have for other bride thinking about this option?

Another Custom Dress Option: Whirling Turban

Looking for a real bombshell dress? Whirling Turban is an option I've heard a lot of tea length brides rave about. They have a lot of beautiful styles and fabric options--for wedding dresses or just for a plain old fabulous frock! They do custom work, or ready-made.

Seriously, their dresses are delicious-- I've been coveting the Wing Bust Dress for quite a while now.

The wedding dresses are fun and fabulous, but crinolines are not included.

Birdcage Veils

I thought I'd step away from the gowns for a minute to talk about veils. I myself wore a shoulder-length two-layer veil that I made myself-- pretty simple. But I did look at quite a few options, including the birdcage veil.

There's something so glamourous and film noir about the birdcage veil--and what a great option for brides with short hair (or long hair), or glasses!

Birdcage veils are made of wide, heavy netting known as French or Russian netting. This veil is quite short, coming to chin-length or even shorter. It can be fastened to your hair with combs or hairpins, and is a chic vintage look that goes with many type of dresses. They may also be called cage veils, blusher veils, or madonna veils.

Styles of Birdcage Veils

The Blusher: a fuller veil, often gathered at the crown of the head. The length covers the bride's face, chin length or below.

Angle Veil: This striking style comes just below the bride's eyes. It can be worn further back on the head, or set at an angle to cover just part of the bride's face.

Bandeau Veil: Almost like a mask, this style covers the bride's eyes or her entire face-- it's fastened at each side of the head with hairpins.

Wedge Veil: Placed at the side of the head or at the temple, the wedge veil is a birdcage veil that covers only one eye.

Birdcage veils can be found at most bridal shops, as well as specialty shops online that carry only veils. You may also find a seamstress or costume designer who can make you a unique veil, or even purchase one second-hand if you're on a budget. If you're feeling adventurous, you can try your hand at making your own birdcage veil. The French or Russian netting can be purchased at some fabric stores, craft stores, or online at millinery supply shops.

You can complete the vintage look by adding a fascinator or other hair accessories. Some brides wear a traditional veil for their ceremony and a fascinator or cage veil for the reception-- be sure to consult your hair stylist if this is an option you're thinking about-- the stylist can make sure that your hair accessories are easily moved/changed out.

The Dress That Started it All

This dress has definitely launched the tea-length dreams of at least a thousand brides. Audrey Hepburn's wedding dress in Funny Face has it all, from the boat-neck bodice to the cap sleeves, to the poofy skirt that accentuates her tiny waist.

Fortunately, the 1950's style doesn't require a tiny waist-- it's flattering on many different body types. In fact, I'd say that it's a dress style that looks better on a curvier woman, since it tends to create that hourglass shape.

Speaking of, what is it with all these bridal ads with dresses hanging off of gaunt women who look pretty unimpressed about the whole business? Is it just me? What do the gals in bridevertisements have to look so depressed about?

Vintage-Inspired Bridesmaid Gifts

Are you planning on rocking a full-on vintage wedding? Or do you just want to carry the retro fun into some other aspects of your wedding planning? I've got a few ideas on thanking your bridesminions:

First off, the gifts don't have to be actual vintage-- they can be new, vintage-inspired items. If you are planning a wedding inspired by a particular era or time period, it can be fun to keep your gifts in that same time period-- and who knows what other wedding goodies you might find while shopping?

When you're shopping, the usual suspects are a good start-- Etsy and Ebay can provide inspiration and ideas, as can local antique stores.

Vintage Jewelry

You can find jewelry from many time periods both online and in local stores. Brooches, necklaces, earrings or bracelets can all be worn by bridesmaids on your wedding day, and can be chosen to suit the tastes of each of your ladies. Unique pieces of similar color, materials, or period can create a cohesive look for the bridal party. And jewelry is available to suit a variety of budgets, from less expensive costume jewelry to the real thing.

Vintage Accessories

Hand-monogrammed handkerchiefs, luxurious wraps, and fun sunglasses are all wonderful vintage-inspired accessories that can be purchased new or vintage. Plus they'll be useful long after your wedding is over. Clutch purses or hair combs or fascinators are also great accessory choices. Looking for both elegant and practical? What about an engraved compact mirror and/or a lipstick holder?

Other Vintage-Inspired Bridesmaid Gift Ideas

Vintage books and magazines can be fun gifts, as long as they're in good condition--think kitschy cookbooks or pulp detective novels. Aprons have made a fashionable return to kitchens everywhere, in a variety of fun retro fabrics. A little old-fashioned but still decadent--personalized stationery and a fountain pen or letter opener. Or what about some fabulous atomic age barware, along with recipes for vintage cocktails?

Looking to splurge? What about a pinup girl photo shoot--a fun afternoon of getting dolled up and posing for some saucy photos!

I went with a couple of these options-- some wraps for the girls, plus a compact mirror engraved with each girl's initial. Then, just for fun, I found some good condition saucy romance magazines from the 50's.

What are you getting your bridesmaids?

Where to Find Tea Length Wedding Dresses?

Although they sometimes appear in magazines, actually finding a tea-length dress to try on in stores can be difficult. Here are some ideas on where to start your search:

Bridal Shops

It's true, most of the wedding dresses you'll find in bridal shops are going to be full-length gowns. But many designers are now featuring at least one tea length dress--they might be called "informal" or "destination" wedding dresses. Some full-length dresses can also be ordered in tea length, or even altered to a shorter length. You'll probably end up paying for the whole dress, though!

Some designers specialize in tea length gowns, such as Stephanie James, Dolly Couture, and British designer Candy Anthony.

Vintage Dresses

Vintage dresses, wedding or otherwise, can be found online on Ebay, Etsy, Posh Girl Vintage, or any other site specializing in vintage clothing. If you're lucky enough to have a high end vintage clothing store in your real life, you might have some luck in person-- no stressing out waiting for the mail to arrive and wondering if your purchase will fit!

White prom dresses or cocktail dresses can also double as a wedding dress, and if you're a gal who doesn't want a white dress at all, your options may open up considerably. Hazards of shopping vintage: many dresses are only available in smaller sizes, and you'll want to inspect the condition of the dress carefully before purchasing. As well, vintage dresses may require special cleaning and repairs before they can be worn.

Bridesmaid Dresses

Although bridal shops don't openly advertise it, most bridesmaid dresses can be ordered in white. If you go this route, there are many tea length styles to choose from, and even the most expensive bridesmaid dress will likely be cheaper than a traditional wedding gown.

When I inquired about this option at my local bridal shop, I was told that there is an additional surcharge for ordering a dress in white, because "they have to be extra careful when cutting and assembling the dress". I personally think this is a way for dress stores to ding you extra for being a bride-- be sure to find out if there will be extra charges if you're ordering a bridesmaid dress for your wedding dress.

Making A Dress

This is the kind of project that you think will make your wedding extra special, but in reality could very well make you into a crazy woman. Making your own dress is an option for the most fearless of brides, and it might be wise to consider having a friend or family member help with this project. Vintage patterns are readily available for sale online, and pattern companies have been reissuing authentic vintage patterns with modernized instructions. A bride taking this route should probably be confident and experienced with sewing-- this is not the best beginner project! Be sure to make one, two or fifteen muslins before starting on the real thing.

Have A Dress Made

Still no luck finding your dream dress? Take the route I did and have your dress custom-made! As a bride on a budget, I shopped around to find someone local. Prices do vary, depending on the complexity of the design and the type of fabric you want. But since my dress was shorter and didn't need as much fabric as a traditional gown, it was still quite affordable. You could also take that fabulous vintage pattern you've found and have someone else make it for you instead of sewing it yourself.

Have you found a fabulous source for vintage dresses or patterns? Please share it here!

Friday Frocks

I know it's not poofy, but I think this Dessy bridesmaid dress could be so elegant as a wedding dress. I love the bow and the bust detailing.

This Dessy dress is also available in white. I always used to get a little annoyed with ads showing dresses in lounging around kind of poses-- I want to see what the dress looks like!

I love the silhouette on this Mori Lee wedding dress-- not too sure how I feel about the organza floral detailing on the skirt, though. It's a little too fussy for me, but I think the right bride could rock it!

A Question For My Tea-Length Ladies...

For all the tea-length brides out there, did you meet with any resistance when you announced your choice of dress? I saw cocktail-length wedding dresses on Indiebride (they have a fabulously feminist and alternative discussion board for non wedding-industrial-complex brides-- just look under "Kvetch") before I was even engaged, and I just knew that those were the dresses for me. The only raised eyebrows I really got were at bridal stores or from other brides, albeit ones I don't know very well.

I really just felt that the tea-length fit my personality (I'm a vintage gal at heart), and seemed a lot more fun than the giant, corsetted dresses I tried on. Not that those didn't look good, too. But they just didn't feel like me.

How do the folks in your life feel about your tea-length dreams?

The Reception Dress

Can't decide between a tea-length dress and the full bridal shebang? Are you the kind of gal who just wants to have it all? Many brides who want to have a formal wedding gown for their ceremony, but still want to be able to dance at the reception (and possibly go to the bathroom without four people helping her) are choosing to wear a reception dress.

The reception dress is often shorter, simpler, and far more casual than the bride's ceremony dress, leaving her free to mingle with her guests and dance the night away at the reception.

Can't afford two dresses? Or just want to skip straight to the tea-length for the full meal deal? Many bridal designers are hiding their shorter dresses away under the title of "reception dress". Check out these beauties from Priscilla of Boston...

My own dress ended up being based on one of Priscilla's reception dresses, though I see it's no longer being carried on the website.

Affordable, Vintage-Inspired Wedding Dresses: Dolly Couture

Dolly Thicke founded her line of tea length wedding dresses after becoming frustrated in the search for her own 1950's style wedding dress. Dolly Couture combines the ease of ordering online, with personal, friendly service (Dolly and her associates can always be contacted by email, and brides who friend Dolly on Facebook can see an ever-growing album of photos of dresses on real brides!). Brides can customize existing dresses, or work with Dolly to bring their dream wedding dress into reality. And, of course, Dolly Couture's prices (starting at $395) make these dresses some of the most affordable tea-length dresses on the net!

Dolly Couture's collection includes tea-length bridal and special occasion dresses in a variety of necklines and fabrics--she's now got showrooms in both LA and NYC for brides who want to visit in person.

Dolly has two mottos: "No unhappy brides", and "Dolly Couture: It's better to show your legs!" We at TLWD couldn't agree more! Dolly's dresses are fun, elegant, and affordable--not to mention a perfect opportunity to show off some fabulous wedding shoes!

Although I ended up getting my own dress made locally, I'd suggest brides looking for a short wedding dress check out Dolly's site-- and if you don't see exactly what you're looking for, drop her a line! As with any dress you are ordering online, you'll want to be sure to have a seamstress lined up for any final fittings/adjustments that may be required.

Pictured above: The Milan, The Marin County, and The Manhattan.

Welcome

Welcome to my tea length wedding dress blog! As a tea-length bride myself, I was surprised at how difficult it was to find vintage style wedding dresses in stores. And when I managed to find one or two styles in bridal stores, I was faced with clerks trying to talk me out of my decision, asking me if I "wouldn't regret not having a full-length dress in twenty years".

So I decided to start this blog for all the tea-length brides out there-- I hope it can be a place to talk about styles, sources, and that deliciously poofy skirt!